Independent wave. Who was the first Kazakh woman who conquered the highest peak of North America?

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46-year-old Indira Weaver (Sakhaulova), a native of Semey region, is an ethnic Kazakh woman who first climbed the highest mountain in North America, Denali (McKinley). In an interview with "Adyrna", Indira shares her experience of climbing the mountain and her first impressions.

McKinley is the highest peak in North America, located in the Alaska Range. In 2015, the peak's name, named after the 25th US president McKinley, was changed back to its previous name, Denali, in the local Koyukon language. This area is part of Denali National Park. The height of the peak is 6194 meters. It is the third highest in the world after Everest and Aconcagua. Indira Weaver told that she was proud to have brought the flag of our country, Karipbek Kuyikov's painting and "The book of words" of Abay Kunanbayuly to the highest point of this mountain.

- Mrs. Indira, please introduce yourself first. What region are you from?

- My name is Indira Weaver (Sakhaulova). I was born in 1977 in Sosnovka (now Ernazar), Beskaragay district, former Semipalatinsk region. My father worked as an ordinary driver on a collective farm, and my mother worked as a therapist. In 1993, at the age of 15, I graduated from school and entered the French language faculty of INYAZ Institute (now Kazakh University of International Relations and World Languages ​​- jur.) in Almaty.

Later, in 2006, I married  with an Englishman and I moved to England. My husband's name is Simon, we have two sons, 9 and 12 years old.

I WASN'T INTERESTED IN MOUNTAINS BEFORE"

- Who did you dream of becoming? Have you had a love for the mountains since childhood?

- When I was little, I had many dreams. I dreamed of working in a pastry factory because I love cookies. Then I wanted to become a policeman. During my summer internship in high school, I helped milk cows on a farm.

Sosnovka, the village where I was born, had a plain on one side and a dense pine forest on the other. That is why the name of the village is called "Sosnovka". I started paying attention to mountains only when I was a student. To be honest, I was not interested in mountains when I was little.

FIRST TRIP STARTING FROM ALATAU

- When did you start climbing the mountain, active expedition in general? Is climbing a hobby for you or a career?

- This is my hobby, my passion. In July 2006, thanks to my future husband Simon, I traveled to the mountains for the first time. He came to the city of Almaty, where he was studying/working, and he asked me to  go with him to the Big Almaty Lake in Alatau. I had never been there before and I didn't even have sneakers. We really enjoyed that trip. The view from the mountain was so amazing! The cool brown weather was comforting. For example, it was +42C in the city. The noise of the gushing mountain springs shook the soul. The gentle breeze and the beautiful sound of birds create a wonderful feeling. Beauty everywhere you look. We understood that even the plants growing in the mountains are beautiful creatures. I really enjoyed and I was inspired by that trip.

After moving to England we climbed the tripoint together (Wales, England, Scotland), then Toubkal in Morocco (highest point in the Western Atlas), Mont Blanc in France (highest point in Western Europe) and then Kilimanjaro. We reached 6,200 meters in Tanzania (the top of Africa), Elbrus in Russia (the highest point in Europe), and on the way to Mount Mera in the Himalayas. Then we had a child. And last year, in 2023, we climbed Aconcagua, the highest point in South America.

UNFORGETABLE DENALI

- You shared on Instagram about your climb to the top of Denali in North America. What are some interesting and dangerous things that happened while climbing Denali? How did you feel when you reached the top?

- Everything was interesting. It was my first trip to the US. And the state of Alaska itself amazes everyone with its nature and open spaces. The flight from Talkeetna village to the base camp at 2250 m in a small 6 seater plane was a special feeling. You may have noticed skis instead of landing gear in the photos as the plane took off and landed from the base camp. Another interesting thing is the cleanliness of the air and the absence of any smell. Because everything around is white snow. And here there is nothing but snow. It was also interesting to walk along the longest glacier in Alaska, Kalkhitna, which is 70 kilometers long.

And the dangerous thing is the cracks that are visible from time to time under the snow in the glaciers. We were constantly tied to each other. Walking along narrow ridges is dangerous, and even looking left or right is scary. You only looked in front of you and followed the footsteps of the person in front of you.

In fact, emotions do not appear immediately. Because right at the top, you don't feel like you've gone all the way due to extreme fatigue and pressure. You will still look worried and collected. Because you have to walk the same way again and get back down safely. That's why you feel the real emotion when you reach the base camp and even when you land. Only then will you realize that you have overcome a giant mountain.

"I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL CLIMBER"

-What are your plans for the future, what peak do you want to conquer next? Also, tell us about the health benefits of mountaineering. What motivation would you give to those interested?

- At the moment, I have no concrete plans. I am resting and receiving treatment from Denali. Since the beginning of the summer holidays, I have been spending time with the children. However, I personally want to go back to Nepal.

To be honest, I am not a professional climber. Therefore, I can't say exactly about the health benefits. I would call myself a "great soul". I only go to the mountains as part of an organized group, an expedition led by experienced professional guides.

And I can tell you from my personal experience that it is important to exercise, diet, monitor your sleep, and keep your body in shape to climb the mountain. Training can take months or even years. Every mountain is different. Denali, for example, is a very physically demanding mountain because there are no porters, helpers, or helicopters to help carry the load. We carried all personal luggage and food, tents, toilet buckets with us. We were also dragging our sleds in big backpacks. The expedition lasted 18 days. There are times when there is no access to water, so you can't even wash. And we melt the snow for drinking. I know that it takes a big heart and endurance. And I wish the readers to find their favorite activities and spend special time on sports.

- Thank you for the interview!

Dina Litpin

"Adyrna" national portal

Translated by:"Adyrna" national portal

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